dimanche 19 juin 2011

You got to do what you are set out to do.

That's right.

You got to do what you are set out to do

I am set out to share with the world my passion for river surfing and surfing in general. This week I tried surfing, however, due to an injury, I could not. So instead, I am blogging about surf. My whole surfing experience started two years ago while I was on a urban treck in the beautiful city of Montreal, where I live. I saw a group of totally stoked guys and girls surfing behind the habitat 67 homes. It was a revelation to me. I knew that one day my life would involve surfing.
It all started with a view on eternity, that is the eternal wave. It is always there. If you good enough, and you are lucky enough to be alone on that day at the wave, you can surf it forever.

I asked a man on that day " where can I surf ?". He replied : " Try KSF, with Hugo Lavictoire, you know the mastercard ads ?". That was in 2009, two years ago. What really got me motivated to go surfing was this unique tetris surf board that is exposed in the EA Mobile Office. I saw it everyday for a year, it was a friendly reminder, that I had to do what I was set out to do. One day I woke up and said to myself : "I am going to surf, no matter what, no matter who, no one is stoping me, including myself".

Montréal is not your typical surfing hub. In february you can get 40 centimeter of snow and -40 degrees celsius (people do surf in the winter I dont, for now :-) You can imagine why I was a bit hesitant. It very unusual to think about surfing in quebec. There alots of snow here. By the end of april when spring comes back, it is all gone and you can go surfing with a thick wet suit, some nice neoprene gloves and botties. The water is near 8 degrees celsius !

So I went surfing for the first time, and ever since I am hooked ! Henceforth this blog. It's been the best thing in my life. I personnally surf in ville lasalle a smaller wave called vague a guy. I dont focus on performance, I focus on fun. I use a 7'10'' NSP fun board. Because it's fun. Surfing to me, is all about fun. When I jump in the water, I can hear my heart pounding. It's ready to go.

I surf at a different spot know as the vague à Guy (prononced Guee). It's closer to shore, it is less crowded and near that surf shop I rent and buy my gear from. I do not have footage of my surfing so far. It will come as I progress.

For now, I will end my post with some big wave surfin, that I love : Cortes Bank and a Panto Banton Song, life is a miracle.