dimanche 25 décembre 2011

Merry Christmas, Bu

To all my readers from all over the world, I would like to wish you the best time with your families and friends. I wish you peace, warmth and properity for 2012. So here is a truly global statement :

Joyeux Noël, Geseënde Kersfees, Frohe Weihnachten,
.Շնորհավոր Սուրբ Ծնունդ:,শুভ বড়দিন, З Калядамі,Весела Коледа,
 Bon Nadal, 圣诞快乐, 메리 크리스마스, jwaye nowèl,Sretan Božić
Glædelig jul, ¡Feliz Navidad, Häid jõule, Hyvää Joulua, Bo Nadal,
Nadolig Llawen, შობა, Καλά Χριστούγεννα, મેરી ક્રિસમસ,
मेरी क्रिसमस, Boldog Karácsonyt, Selamat Hari Natal, Nollaig Shona,
Gleðileg jól, Buon Natale, メリークリスマス, ಮೆರ್ರಿ ಕ್ರಿಸ್ಮಸ್, Lorem Nativitatis
Priecīgus Ziemassvētkus, God jul, С Рождеством, สุขสันต์วันคริสมาสต์
Mutlu Noeller, Feliz Natal !

jeudi 1 décembre 2011

Matt Meola

This is an incredibly massive surf attack video. It's aggressive, it's artistic, the music is excellent. The surf is absolutely beyond phenomenal. This kid is on the right track. It's fun and uplifting.
Good job el gros, watch tes pipes.

jeudi 17 novembre 2011

« Un rêve sans étoiles est un rêve oublié. » - Paul Éluard

4 mois !

J'ai pas pris de vague depuis 4 mois. Je suis complètement éclaté par la vie. Elle me sert toute une vague en ce moment.

Bonne nouvelle, je mets en place en nouveau programme d'entraînement pour le surf. Il a bien neigé, mais aujourd'hui, je souhaite partager avec vous une belle vidéo de surf.

Faut croire que le hasard fait bien les choses !
J'écoute la télé et je découvre qu'un entrepreneur à construit dans la ville de Tenerife, la plus grande vague de surf artificielle au monde, au Siam Water park. Le concept détruit le maeva flow rider de Laval. En prime voici cette vidéo de surf tournée la nuit, afin de démontrer l'excellence de la vague !

Nightsurf from iker elorrieta on Vimeo.

dimanche 10 juillet 2011

The Choice of the Board

Back to back surfing on saturday and sunday. Saturday was a medium grade surf session. I was struggling ! I was actively looking for a solution to shift my surfing up a notch. So I went back surfing today, and usually I take the go'ol 7'10" bertha NSP board.  Well, today, that board was not available. I had the choice between a 6'4", 6'8" and there was a broken 7'2" board in the corner. My friend Hugo proposed to fix that 7'2" board and it would take 30 minutes. So I said yes. I dont like short board they do not float enough for a tough guy like me. So 7'2" it was. The repair took a solid 42 minutes 37 seconds and I was in need of surfing.

What ensued was the best surfing session and a couple of findings about the logic of the board lenght. So, A shorter board is more responsive. The board allows for greater control in direction. Control is critical in river surfing. A more responsive surf board is good news. I've been surfing that wave for a while and I know what traps are to be avoided.  However , the 7'10" board was not responsive.  Alright, 7'10'' is ok to start with. It's floatability is unparalleled. But that's ok, once you understand the mechanics of surf equilibrium you can sacrifice float for control. That's right.

Now the next choice will be about the form of the board :fish ? quad ? Normal ? I really do not know. I know the answer will come and I will eventually end buying the right board for river surfing.
For now, this week I will be turning the surfing up a notch and I will embarking on a surf marathon, probably go 2-3 times after work in order to maximise the benefits of the new board. 

Good bye 7'10"

samedi 2 juillet 2011

Turning around !

Hello Australia :-)

Specific Message addressed to australian friends coming to Canada.  Montreal is a surf destination in summer time. The wave are not gold coast style, but you can still have plenty of fun with technical river surfing. Indeed, we Montrealers are open minded and we have a huge river to surf. That's right, huge. Bring your surf board here, we surf and they are quite expensive. Just wanted to let you guys know. :-)

Yesterday was a great surf session. I gambled that there would be less people during canada day, as everybody is moving here in Quebec because the renting contracts end on july the 1st. Booooya ! No one likes moving. Theses guys found an original way to take of the refrigerator... Gravity takes care of the rest.

Back to surfing, It was a beautiful day. And no one was there !! I had the whole wave to myself from 8:00 to 9:00 PM as I surfed with the sunset. Amazing, it felt eternal. No stress at all.
The wave is harder to surf as the water level is higher than normal. Congratulation to Robert D. for passing his first surf lesson, as of last week !!

dimanche 19 juin 2011

You got to do what you are set out to do.

That's right.

You got to do what you are set out to do

I am set out to share with the world my passion for river surfing and surfing in general. This week I tried surfing, however, due to an injury, I could not. So instead, I am blogging about surf. My whole surfing experience started two years ago while I was on a urban treck in the beautiful city of Montreal, where I live. I saw a group of totally stoked guys and girls surfing behind the habitat 67 homes. It was a revelation to me. I knew that one day my life would involve surfing.
It all started with a view on eternity, that is the eternal wave. It is always there. If you good enough, and you are lucky enough to be alone on that day at the wave, you can surf it forever.

I asked a man on that day " where can I surf ?". He replied : " Try KSF, with Hugo Lavictoire, you know the mastercard ads ?". That was in 2009, two years ago. What really got me motivated to go surfing was this unique tetris surf board that is exposed in the EA Mobile Office. I saw it everyday for a year, it was a friendly reminder, that I had to do what I was set out to do. One day I woke up and said to myself : "I am going to surf, no matter what, no matter who, no one is stoping me, including myself".

Montréal is not your typical surfing hub. In february you can get 40 centimeter of snow and -40 degrees celsius (people do surf in the winter I dont, for now :-) You can imagine why I was a bit hesitant. It very unusual to think about surfing in quebec. There alots of snow here. By the end of april when spring comes back, it is all gone and you can go surfing with a thick wet suit, some nice neoprene gloves and botties. The water is near 8 degrees celsius !

So I went surfing for the first time, and ever since I am hooked ! Henceforth this blog. It's been the best thing in my life. I personnally surf in ville lasalle a smaller wave called vague a guy. I dont focus on performance, I focus on fun. I use a 7'10'' NSP fun board. Because it's fun. Surfing to me, is all about fun. When I jump in the water, I can hear my heart pounding. It's ready to go.

I surf at a different spot know as the vague à Guy (prononced Guee). It's closer to shore, it is less crowded and near that surf shop I rent and buy my gear from. I do not have footage of my surfing so far. It will come as I progress.

For now, I will end my post with some big wave surfin, that I love : Cortes Bank and a Panto Banton Song, life is a miracle.